Kyoto Ryokan Gion Sano

This ryotei began life as a restaurant and ryokan in Kyotango. With the rustic beauty of the Tango countryside and the refinement of Kyoto as its themes, Kodaiji Wakuden is opening a new era in ryotei culture. Crab, a speciality of the restaurant’s birthplace, is cooked in a sunken hearth, a hole strikingly carved in the middle of tatami seating. Also remarkable is the tradition of this establishment, the flagship of the Wakuden group of restaurants, of appointing carefully selected young chefs to run it, to invite the fresh breeze of new ideas, guided by a philosophy of constant innovation.

The ambience is still, like a mountain retreat in the heart of the city. The flicker of votive lanterns casts a tenor of rustic simplicity. While he worked to polish his cooking skills, Hitoshi Ishihara also encountered Zen teachings. Inspired by the wabicha spirit of the tea ceremony, Ishihara strives to host each dinner as a single gathering, with guests and host in close communication. Generous portions reinforce the mood of celebration. ‘Mizai’ is a Zen word meaning ‘not yet here’; for Ishihara, tireless self-improvement is a never-ending journey.

The chef selects ingredients in a way that treasures interaction with food producers. Against a backdrop of kombu boxes, decorating his walls like hanging scrolls, he prepares his dishes in a spirit of gratitude. His principle is that true flavours are subtle. In wanmono, he aims for a light flavour that brings out the umami of the makombu. But cooking is not the only thing that bewitches diners at Gion Nishikawa. The sukiya design of the interior makes the mood of old Gion palpable, while the chef’s affable personality keeps the room ringing with conversation and laughter.

In a teacher-and-student quest, Hiroshi Sasaki and his understudies vie to create the greatest flavours. Combining Sasaki’s wealth of experience with the youthful sensitivity of his disciples, the restaurant builds a menu that surprises and delights, suffusing classic Japanese cuisine with fresh technique and imagination. The counter becomes a theatre that brings cooks and diners together, each playing their parts. The performances of ‘Sasaki Kitchen Theatre’, fun for eyes and tastebuds, have a presence that keeps the house packed night after night.

Flowers are arranged, the ceremonial space is well appointed, serving vessels are carefully chosen. The tea ceremony spirit pervades Gion Maruyama’s graceful service. The Gion location is a ryotei but, in a modern touch, it also features counter seating. The chef has spent many years seeking out delicious flavours. He spells ‘oishii’ (good-tasting) the old-fashioned way, with the characters that mean ‘beautiful’ and ‘taste’, recalling the sensibilities of an older time. ‘Flavour, not seasoning’ is the chef’s credo. Devotion to Kyoto cuisine that reverberates in all senses.

During the short walk from the front gate to the main buildings, guests can appreciate the history of the buildings while feeling the presence of nature. Classic aesthetics pervade the entire site, from the sukiya design of the buildings to the space reflecting seasonal ceremonies and views of the garden. The chef wants every aspect of Sanso Kyoyamato to be beautiful, so he takes special care with the refinement of his food arrangements and their elegant flavours. The painstaking service of the proprietress and hostess is an agreeable presence. Diners will sense a complete work of Japanese art

The chef has made himself a master of old-school Japanese cuisine to take it to the next level. While respecting orthodoxy in wanmono and side dishes, he refers to French flameworking techniques for his grilled items and snacks. Masu salmon is served mi-cuit; beef is rested multiple times during grilling. The sukiya-style interior in a remodelled wooden townhouse is appointed with both antique and modern dishware. ‘Ryosho’ means ‘aspire to the heavens,’ and the sky’s the limit for the chef’s ambition and desire to better himself.