Big South Fork Lodge

Fuss around in the kitchen. That's what "potchke" means, and this Jewish deli-style restaurant in Old City in downtown Knoxville is indeed riffing on the classics (don't tell bubbe). Laurence Faber and Emily Williams gained a following as a pop-up before moving here, and they're luring a crowd with traditional Jewish comfort food turned on its head (think matzoh ball soup with chili oil). The Bat Mitzvah Show Stopper is definitely that. It's a dramatically large sandwich on toasted, freshly baked challah lashed with smoked trout salad, melted cheddar cheese, greens, cucumber, onion and tomato.