First Cabin Nishi Umeda

A dining room fit for a noble mansion, décor of stunning symmetry and graceful service by the waitstaff create a moment cocooned in splendour. Commanding the kitchen is Christophe Gibert, a native of Bretagne. Accustomed to life by the sea, Gibert makes extensive use of seaweed. His preparations, with their strong accent on sauces, convey his spirit of respect for classic cooking.

The gastronomy of Chef Tatsuhiro Takayama blends a passion for learning from nature with a modern sensibility. To attune his work to the sense of the seasons, he adds layers of texture. His spring ‘Sakuraniku, Sansai’ accents the bitterness of spring vegetables with the texture of buckwheat groats. The menu lists only the ingredients, as a mark of respect to the foodstuff producers. Natural rock tables and wooden ornamental plates eloquently convey the chef’s love of nature.

The tempura fried by the chef as his heart dictates comes out refined. To bring the flavour of carefully selected ingredients, the main oil of choice is Taihaku sesame oil. The coating is infused with bubbles, giving it a light texture. In a distinctive presentation style, seafood and vegetables that work well together are served in alternating pairs. The final dish is the guest’s choice of tendon, tempura over rice; tencha, tendon steeped in roasted green tea; or tenmusu, onigiri filled with shrimp tempura. The chef does not neglect training the next generation, either, entrusting understudie

An artwork resembling a planet dominates the dining room. Look closely and the ‘planet’ contains overlapping images of cuisine, which gather together to form a picture of the Earth. ‘Dialogue with the Earth’ is, indeed, the theme of this restaurant. The experience of growing up amid the beauty of nature shaped the bold world view of Hajime Yoneda. The digitised recipes and detailed cuisine attest to his experience as a system engineer. Cuisine that draws inspiration from all Creation is imbued with love and respect for nature.

Originality is demonstrated here through ingredients from each season and classic techniques. Omakase set menus feature refined, beautiful arrangements, with light flavours to suit a modern sensibility. The name declares that the house is a gathering point, bringing together everyone and everything else involved in food and restaurants. The site chosen for its relaunch was where Point first started. Anticipation is building for this fresh turning point.

Over half a century since he opened his restaurant, Yoshifumi Mori remains vigorously engaged in food preparation. His passion seems unquenchable: with rice flour and salt, he created a seasoning that melts away like snow. He makes wine and even grows rice. Scouring every region of Japan, the chef seeks out unknown ingredients and introduces them to the world. All this has led to Mori being honoured by the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries. Like a steel plate polished until gleaming, he continues to sharpen his culinary sensibilities.

Dinner at Iroha should be a once-in-a-lifetime experience, the chef decrees, so he lavishes his guests with the flavours of what’s in season. The extensive menu and the chef’s endless ingenuity testify to this commitment. An arranged sashimi dish is prepared using the techniques of skin searing, skin boiling, and kombu pickling. The popular beef cutlets are a hearty meat dish, ensuring that everyone leaves feeling satisfied. True to the restaurant’s name, which means ‘coloured leaves’, dishes are decorated with leaves of the season.