L'Ecrin du Serein

The terrace of this stately home overlooking sprawling grounds and a 17C plane tree features in a novel by French author Michel Houellebecq. Mauritian chef Franco Bowanee crafts fine contemporary cuisine, strewn with discerning exotic touches. He doesn't mess around: his delicious dishes shine the spotlight not only on premium ingredients, but also the vegetables from the estate's kitchen garden. Surrounded by floor-to-ceiling glass, the dining room slots into the surrounding nature perfectly.

At this restaurant, the name of which means "vine branch", a pair of chefs work in tandem to cook up honest, unpretentious cuisine. The ingredients and produce – particularly the vegetables – retain all their flavour in dishes such as iced pea soup with goat's cheese and Thai basil. The desserts, too, are meticulously made, a case in point being the strawberry, almond and Timut peppercorn pavlova. The menu-carte features mouthwatering suggestions!

You soon forget the road just outside, as you snuggle up near the fireplace of this pleasant Auberge! The menu stars simple dishes of Burgundian inspiration that are nicely crafted and packed with flavour: slow-cooked egg and snails in a red wine sauce, guinea fowl supreme, puréed potato, braised endive, Bourdaloue tart – and the bill won't break the bank.

This edifice on the banks of the Yonne is truly superlative! Founded by Marie Lorain in 1945, the establishment rose to fame in the hands of her son, Michel, and then later, when her modest, conscientious grandson, Jean-Michel, took over. The latter has entrusted his nephew, Alexandre Bondoux, with the task of composing the menu. Regulars can rest assured that the original, iconic dishes remain (lobster stew; calf sweetbread in ginger), now flanked by flashes of inspiration (skate wing à la meunière in green butter, lovage and morels; suckling lamb from the Pyrenees, gambero rosso and Arabica-

Mathieu Sagardoytho, the new owner-chef of the Zinc, signs a creative menu that pays tribute to painstakingly sourced ingredients (mackerel from Trinité-sur-Mer marinated in mirin, lamb from Clavisy farm, plums from Yonne). Remarkable list of Chablis (and other Burgundies).

This contemporary bistro with an understated decor has blossomed in an old cellar belonging to Domaine Laroche, famous for producing Chablis. Trained in Tokyo and some top-flight French establishments, the Japanese chef invites his customers to partake in cuisine inspired by regional dishes revisited with imagination. Good value for money.

Set in a stunning estate complete with a golf course and spa, this former hunting lodge has been turned into a hotel and fine dining restaurant. The vaulted dining area with white tablecloths and an understated contemporary decor looks out onto the green. Originally from the Cévennes, Clément Vergeat (formerly at Guy Savoy and Alliance in Paris, Kokkeriet in Copenhagen) has devised a surprise menu that combines produce from Southern Europe with Northern European techniques: Camargue oysters with dried duck; smoked prawn tartare smørbrød style; fermented strawberries and matured lamb. Marine Ma