Sotetsu Fresa Inn Kanda-Otemachi

‘Circular gastronomy’ from the chef of Mirazur in southern France. Prix fixe menus are composed from four themes—roots, leaves, flowers and fruits—expressing the beauty of nature and the cycle that happens in our world. The fare is modern French woven from Japanese ingredients, but it also beguiles with influences from the chef’s native Argentina, such as tapas and asado. Having stretched out his roots in southern France and budded leaves of creativity, the chef has blossomed in Otemachi.

Novel ideas meet time-honoured craftsmanship. The signature snack is cream croquette of tiger prawn, dressed in a reduction of shrimp miso. Deep-fried items are also offered, bringing a satisfaction rarely found at sushi shops. For its part, the sushi is prepared traditionally: brined, marinated or simmered. In part because of his language skills, the chef was tapped to cater a dinner meeting between the Japanese and American leaders.

Taking pride in domestic ingredients, the restaurant presents a distinctly Japanese approach to French cuisine. Dishes are light, with restrained use of fats and oils in line with modern tastes. Seasonal menus highlight fruits such as peaches and strawberries from local farmers, making the most of their natural character. Courses featuring sweetfish, chestnuts and mushrooms are also tempting. ‘La Paix’ means peace, expressing a wish for a harmonious table where producers and chef come together in mutual understanding through food.

The concept is ‘a place that weaves a tale of an encounter between earth and sea’. ESTERRE expresses the terroir of Japan through the supervision of Alain Ducasse, a legend of the gastronomic world. Entrusted with the kitchen is Kei Kojima, who conjures fare that is both healthful and flavourful. Vegetables, selected in the markets of Kamakura, are colourful and fresh. Ingredients wreathed in the fragrance of a charcoal flame display a quintessentially Japanese approach.

Satoru Asahina pursues a gastronomy of ‘traditional heritage with modern innovation’. He delves into the history of French cuisine to reconstruct ancient recipes with his own interpretations. The prix fixe meal begins with a colourful amuse-bouche and proceeds to plates adorned with multi-layered culinary creations. Consommé pressed through a siphon with a flourish and desserts paraded on trolleys catch the eye. Classic cuisine tuned up to point to the future.

Thai culinary culture interpreted through Japanese ingredients. She moved to Bangkok and honed her culinary skills, now offer her cuisine prix fixe. Chopped mix of pomelo and seafood derives from the table of the royal court; rice vermicelli yakisoba is inspired by Bangkok street food. Curries are prepared with fresh-pressed coconut milk. Regional cuisines are reproduced using fermented or matured homemade seasonings. KHAO overflows with inquisitiveness and passion for Thai cuisine.

A man of few words, the chef fixes his attention on his grill. He focuses on every detail of yakitori—the state of the charcoal, how the skewers are assembled and grilled—pursuing the subtleties of a cuisine. His favoured type of chicken is game fowl, prized for its supple texture and rich flavour. It is seasoned with a salt base and modulated with added chicken fat or vinegar, then wreathed in smoke as it cooks on the grill. Skewers are interspersed with chicken-based snacks such as cold chicken breast and mincemeat potato salad. A procession of dishes of lively originality.