Lumos Inn 拾光行旅

This venue sports a dark colour scheme, with an eclectic mix of Chinese garden motifs and European palatial glamour. The Hong Kong chef excels in refined Cantonese fare that showcases his high-flying skill and precision. He uses Cherry Valley ducks from Yilan for his Cantonese-style crispy-skin roast duck, and Peking duck four ways. Pre-order these items to avoid missing out. For dim sum, try meticulously crafted Chinese spinach and salted egg dumplings.

A buzzy spot for home-style food, Ming Fu serves big portions ideal for sharing with friends and family. Taiwanese fare is the star, including items seldom found elsewhere, such as mullet tripe and fresh fish maw. Their signature ‘Buddha jumps over the wall’ requires pre-ordering, however, unlike traditional recipes which call on pork ribs and taro, this version of the gourmet soup uses matsutake mushrooms, gingkoes and abalone.

This long-standing favourite appeals to locals with Edomae sushi made with Hokkaido rice dressed in veteran chef’s own blend of red vinegars, and the finest fish that he ages himself. The tuna stands out in particular, while various zensai ranging from unagi to abalone work up your appetite for the main course. Counter seats let you stay close to the action, but the room allows for more privacy. Often fully booked, but it’s worth persevering.

Though technically in a night market, this third-generation family business is only open from dawn till dusk. Since 1973, the regulars have been returning for its steamed sticky rice that is chewy but never mushy. Year-old aged rice is mixed with fried scallion and garlic before steamed with lean or fatty pork. It tastes best with homemade sweet chilli sauce and spicy radish sauce. Also try the oyster soup steeped in umami and plump oysters.

Nestled in the Dadaocheng area, this family business is now run by the third-generation owners. It opens at 7am for traditional Taiwanese breakfast – egg or rice noodles served in a flavoursome stock made with pork bones, offal and chicken, or dressed in a sweet sauce. Side dishes like pork offal, boiled chicken and blanched squid are also worth trying, but their signature crispy skin braised pork is only available after 10am.

An alumnus of several world-renowned restaurants in New York City, the head chef recounts his eclectic journey with a 10- or 14-course omakase-style tasting menu. From your counter seat, watch the hushed team skilfully prepare every dish with Asian ingredients and a Japanese culinary ethos. A standout is the kamameshi course that melds Japanese and European techniques. For the full experience, try the wine pairings or temperance flight.

Chef Paul Lee leads a talented young kitchen team in presenting a tasting menu that elevates Taiwanese street food to the level of haute cuisine. Asian and European flavours mingle harmoniously in refined dishes made with quality local produce and imported ingredients are perfected by modern techniques. Non-alcoholic beverage pairings by the mixology virtuoso enhance the experience. On top of the tasting menu, add-ons are available.