Grand Fine Kyoto Minami

His father was an artist specialising in maki-e, gold and silver decorations on lacquer; his mother the latest in a long line of tea-ceremony instructors. Overseas, he spread the word about the virtues of shojin-ryori. ‘En’ means ‘swallow’; the chef named his restaurant for this migratory bird in reference to himself, a man who had lived away from Japan but had come home to Kyoto. The menu is broad in scope and includes some dishes incorporating Western elements. The swallow is said to bring good fortune, and the chef’s personality and the reputation of his cooking bring customers flocking to

The chef honed his craft in northern Italy as well as Kyoto. Pursuing original interpretations, he tacks Kyoto ingredients onto hometown Italian recipes. His passion leans toward the pasta dishes of the Piedmont region. His skill in making pasta by hand, factoring in the day’s weather, humidity and the condition of the ingredients, is craftsmanship personified. Flavours of Italy, reimagined for Japan’s four seasons.

The chef has been researching the deliciousness of ramen since he was a schoolboy. In search of a unique flavour, he made ‘Scallop and Japanese Pepper Ramen’ his signature dish. Soup of dashi drawn from chicken, pork and seafood is multilayered and satisfying. The finished Japanese pepper oil imparts a refreshing feeling, and the generous topping of scallop is pure luxury. A carefully calibrated bowl of goodness that is the gift of repeated independent study.

The proprietor is a soba craftsman who makes pottery. Serving handmade juwari soba of 100% buckwheat flour milled in-house, on flatware he crafted himself, embodies ‘sonoba-style’ service. As popular as his ‘mori soba’, chilled soba served on a wicker basket, is his seasonal soba. This changes monthly, creatively pairing noodles with ingredients such as bamboo shoots, sudachi citrus, walnuts and oysters. The industrial-look interior highlighted with recycled materials was also created by the proprietor. From cooking to décor, the sensibility of the artistic spirit is displayed throughout.

White is the keynote colour of the antiques-accented interior. The restaurant is decorated with sundries collected at flea markets, while a pendant light wreathes the establishment in its warm glow. The chef prepares traditional cuisine, arrangements stripped to the essentials so the flavours of the ingredients themselves shine clearly. Enamoured of Bincho charcoal, the chef even bakes his bread with it. The name of the restaurant means ‘white asparagus’—no need to ask what their spring speciality is…

The charm of Koryori Takaya is that it’s a kappo, but with the comfortable familiarity of a neighbourhood eatery. Freshly cooked dishes and smiling conversation put diners in a good mood. For lunch, set meals with a variety of small side dishes are served; in the evening, the chef displays his talent with omakase, concluding with rice in earthenware pots and accompaniments. A choice of pickled tuna, grilled fish or sukiyaki makes the end of the evening fun.

An intimate French atelier where refinement and warmth come together. At the helm are a French chef who honed his skills under Alain Ducasse and a proprietress who is a graphic designer. Tailoring its cuisine to the season, the restaurant showcases Japanese ingredients. Menus and wine lists feature maps of France and Japan, while napkins are embroidered with the restaurant’s logo. Everything is made lovingly by hand, weaving the threads of husband and wife together like warp and woof.