Solvana Akasaka

A noren of Tokushima indigo, Tokushima sakes, fish from Naruto and Awa beef make Hiroyuki Kanda’s roots clear. Selecting ingredients carefully and applying minimal preparation is Kanda’s style of cooking. For example, rice should be cooked to perfection, each grain distinct, with small holes like crab burrows dotting the surface. The chef’s motto is ‘subtle flavour is true flavour’, and it is in the subtle flavours that depth of character is known.

Black-and-white photos of the palace of Versailles adorn the walls; the palace symbolises the era when France was at the height of its splendour, and pays homage to the restaurant’s name, which means 'glory'. Paying respect to the development of French cuisine from the dishes favoured by the royal court, the chef adds a modern twist with his own hand, blending classic influences with contemporary elements. The pairings of international wines are another reflection of his modern sensibility.

The crown, ‘ryuzu’ in Japanese, is a vital part of a watch. Under the leadership of Ryuta Iizuka, the team moves like clockwork: chefs, patissiers, servers, and the sommelier working in perfect synchrony, like the gears of a precision timepiece. Foodstuffs from the chef’s native Niigata Prefecture, as well as vegetables from the Noto region of Ishikawa Prefecture, reflect the essence of each passing seasons. The passion of food producers is transformed into cuisine by the kitchen and conveyed to guests through graceful service.

The chef’s gastronomic experience includes stints in Sydney and New York. The creative flair he acquired along the way finds expression in the imaginative freedom of his menu. Appetiser of sea urchin and tuna is paired with caviar. Hassun platters incorporate unique choices such as spring rolls and roasted pork fillet. Broiled seafood and grills of eel and wagyu are accented by the aroma of bincho charcoal. The meal wraps up with handmade soba or rice in clay pots available on request.

Although rooted in French techniques, the cuisine here minimises butter and cream, allowing the natural aromas and flavours of the ingredients to shine in a lighter finish. Chilled oysters with seawater and citrus jelly, as well as kadaif-wrapped john dory, have become the chef’s signature dishes. A plant-based vegan course also reflects his philosophy. ‘Edition’ speaks to his approach of constantly editing and refining recipes, always updating them.

Sit down at the counter, and the calligraphy on the wall catches the eye. A gift from the chef’s mentor, it reads ‘Jikishin’, meaning ‘true heart’, a Zen exhortation to disengage from worldly attachments and maintain a pure spirit unsullied by petty distractions. The omakase set menu begins with items reflecting the chef’s experience with Kyoto cuisine, then proceeds to sushi. The beguiling texture of the sushi rice, which leaves a lingering sweetness, derives from a combination of rice from both this year’s and last year’s harvests. Sushi moulded with unwavering conviction and an honest heart

The long table bears a close resemblance to the dining tables of European nobility. Dinner is served table d’hôte: guests gather around a single large table, sharing the joy of good food and conversation. Reading the mood of the era, Chef Hiroyasu Kawate serves up delicious food and eco-consciousness, actively incorporating plant-based ingredients. The choice of vegetarian dishes as main meals is a new twist. Whether vegetarian or vegan, the fare blazes a fresh trail in vegetable cuisine.