Plas Derwen Hotel

It's hard not to love Walnut Tree; it's got a cosy, open-fired bar, a dining room adorned with colourful art, and owners who run it with heart and soul. Shaun Hill, the quintessential chef’s chef, has been here for over 20 years and has a great understanding of flavours and balance. His overtly seasonal cooking blends the classical and the modern across dishes that are prepared with a no-frills, yet consistently delicious approach. Fish is a particular strength, be it red mullet with dashi or cod with brown shrimps, and the muscat crème caramel is a great way to finish.

There's a charmingly rustic feel to this smartly run rural inn close to the Victorian market town of Usk. A white-washed exterior, log-burning stove and wooden beams all add to the appeal, while the chefs do their part with a concise menu of well-executed, classically based cuisine. The fish cookery is a particular highlight, as evidenced by dishes like hake with a terrific butter sauce and capers. Everything is made in-house, including the ice creams and sorbets for dessert.