Shirokane Apartment Hotel 2

The chef was a fishmonger before pursuing the path of the sushi artisan. Every sushi piece he forms is an expression of gratitude to the fishermen and wholesalers. The meal begins with hand-delivered negitoromaki (roll sushi of tuna and green onions). Pairing rolls of monkfish liver and kanpyo (dried gourd) with sweet, thick kijoshu is inspired by how foie gras matches so well with botrytised wine. The omakase set menu is wonderfully satisfying with its generous selection of items. Add to all this the three requisites of good service: awareness, attentiveness and smiles. No wonder reservations

The Japanese love of small spaces is deeply connected with the spirit of the tea ceremony and its cultural background. The counter, affording just the right distance between guests and Chef Toshiya Kadowaki, seats just six. The private room, whose low ceiling suggests a tearoom, is so intimate that guests can feel each other’s breathing. The menu features dishes where ingredients in season come together to create fleeting sensations that linger in the memory forever. Truffle rice, enriching the meal in both aroma and flavour, is a case in point.

The name combines two of the four characters of Haruhiko Yamamoto’s name. The chef’s approach to cuisine and commitment to entertaining guests were both learned from his mentor in Gifu. He is also enthusiastic about guiding the next generation, as shown by the smiles and positive attitude of his young crew. Yamamoto may surprise with innovative dishes, but with wansashi—the pairing of sashimi and soup, considered the essence of Japanese cuisine—he stays true to tradition. Each item is the product of painstaking effort the customer never sees.

The name means ‘a tranquil space surrounded by lush greenery’. It conveys the richness of Japanese culture, which cherishes the beauty of the changing seasons. Featuring vibrant vegetable and seafood delicacies, the menu reflects the emotions of each season in both presentation and tableware. By serving shojin ryori, the vegetarian cuisine developed by Zen monks, the restaurant aims to preserve ancient culinary tradition. It values its connection to the Zen-sect Tengenji Temple, as it is located in the grounds.

Seafood largely comes from the Amakusa islands off Kyushu’s west coast, because that’s where the chef is from. For the same reason, salt, soy sauce and local sake are sourced from Kumamoto. The providence of sea and land are all used in natural ways. To ensure compatibility between rice and topping, rice is matched with red or rice vinegar as appropriate. Depending on its nature, rice from different regions may be cooked separately, then combined and vinegared. Strictly speaking, this reminds us that sushi is simply a way of eating rice.

Chef Koichi Katsumata pours his devotion into his fruit selections, which he gathers as he calls on farms throughout Japan. Flavours variously embrace citrus fruits, mangoes, peaches, figs, and chestnuts as the seasons change. Each course offers variations in fragrance, texture and temperature, and through the incorporation of vegetables. The chef was born in Yamanashi Prefecture in the imposing presence of Mt. Fuji, hence the name of the establishment (yama means ‘mountain’). Yama demonstrates that, like the rugged Japanese islands so rich in peaks and valleys, pure sweetness can take a wide

The chef, once dedicated solely to Cantonese cuisine, expanded his repertoire as he honed his craft in Hong Kong and Shanghai. Prix fixe menus incorporate traditions from regions across China, using ingredients selected from a broad purview. The chef focuses not only on seasoning but also on the natural flavours of the ingredients; dried abalone simmered in water alone testifies to his conviction. After dinner the chef serves Chinese tea, conveying gratitude to guests as he converses with them.