Hanoi Family Homestay

Gia đình, meaning "family", is a reference to chef Sam Tran and partner Long Tran's longing for their homeland during their years working abroad. The restaurant decor draws inspiration from the Temple of Literature just across the road. A single tasting menu is offered, showcasing the finest seasonal ingredients and drawing inspiration from the rich heritage of traditional Vietnamese cuisine. Deceptively complex, the beautifully crafted dishes showcase well-judged combinations of subtle flavours, with acidity and texture playing prominent roles.

Opened over 30 years, this restaurant has three branches on one street. Head to the most popular, at 6B: a pale-yellow, century-old townhouse accessible via a quaint courtyard. The menu stars chả cá, deboned Hemibagrus catfish (cá lăng), seasoned with turmeric, wrapped in banana leaves and grilled. Served in a hot pot, it is lightly stir-fried with spring onions and herbs – best enjoyed with rice noodles and fish sauce.

One of Hanoi's most iconic eateries, Phở Gia Truyền exemplifies the Northern approach to phở with three options: rare flank, medium rare round or well-done brisket. Each delicious bowl is made to order at the counter, and diners can add crispy quẩy or a golden egg yolk for richness.

Many restaurants in Vietnam focus on a concise menu starring one key ingredient. In this 40-plus-year-old shop, the menu revolves around eel as in eel noodles, eel congee and eel soup. For the noodles, they use rice vermicelli which is made into noodle soup, or tossed with deep-fried shredded eel, herbs, toasted peanuts and shallots. Shredded pork sausage and shiitake mushrooms are added to the soup and congee to further boost the umami.

For over a decade, this small shop has been known for its crispy bánh xèo pancake with various fillings. For first-timers, English-speaking servers helpfully explain how the pancake is wrapped in rice paper with veggies and herbs, and dunked in the tangy fish sauce before being consumed. In addition to the signature pancake, hot pot, spring roll, rice noodles and barbecues are their strong suits.

Khôi Hói means bald head, referring to the owner’s hairstyle. Come here for phở – beef noodle soup. There are many cuts to choose from, including rare cuts like beef heel muscle. You can also specify how you like your beef cooked.

Early risers delight in this beef phở haven, open from 5:30am until mid‐morning, when beef cuts and broth are sold out. Fresh ingredients shine in the signature beef heel muscle, which boasts tender meat and gelatinous tendon with a pleasant chew. Order phở with eggs and fried dough, just like the locals.