Secret Elm Apartment

Set on a bustling street corner, this modest eatery with indoor and outdoor seating has a lively atmosphere. The star of the show is bún riêu: rice noodles (thin, thick or flat) in a tomato and crab broth. The mildly spicy, naturally sweet broth has good depth and pairs well with generous toppings of fresh whelk meat and minced pork that soaks up the broth. Do like the locals and add condiments – but start with a modest dab of the pungent shrimp paste.