Bell house

With the temperament of an artist, the chef places everything in its proper proportion. Gathering unpolished buckwheat from Nagano and Niigata, he grinds the two together, checking moisture by hand to produce nihachi and juwari noodles. Soba and broth are served in harmony: as seiro, accompanied by soup redolent of katsuobushi, or as kake, steeped in hot katsuobushi broth. Side dishes are soba-shop favourites, such as Pacific herring simmered for days or seafood and buckwheat flour wrapped in nori and deep-fried.

The chef heard the call to the culinary life one day while riding his father’s motorcycle on a long tour around the Seto Inland Sea. When he happened upon a ramen shop along the way, the taste of the salty soba touched his soul. He combines a clear seafood broth with homemade noodles crafted with aroma in mind. The ceiling decoration recalls the roof of an old-time food stall, honouring how ramen culture spread in his native Hiroshima Prefecture.

Sushi got its start as hawker food that flourished in Edo (old Tokyo). To impart a feeling for that culture, Tachiguisushi Sushikawa is a standup sushi bar (and is what the name means). No drinking snacks; this is nigiri only, which you can order piece by piece according to your taste. Sushi toppings display an old-school craftsmanship. The chef harbours doubts about the recent trend of taking sushi up-market, which is why he recreated the atmosphere of a real-deal, no-nonsense sushi joint. A sushi local where regulars come to chat with the chef.

Creative dining focused on affinity with sake. Appetisers are served as a combination platter, the better to keep the libations flowing. Tsukuri feature ingenious arrangements of condiments. Uniquely, meat dishes are an indispensable part. Each dish is generous, making every morsel an unforgettable memory. The collection of sake and shochu, amassed on visits to breweries, is impressive; as the shop specialises in local tipples, the wine and whisky selection is also strictly Japanese.

A trattoria where à la carte dining is encouraged with a comprehensive menu of regional cuisines. Pici served with tomato ragú laden with garlic and vegetable sformato are all flavours learned in the Italian countryside. A marble bar counter and Tuscan-style stone walls create a stylish space inspired by interiors in Tuscany. Steps from Shoin Shrine, this is Italian food culture with deep roots in daily life.

‘The look surprises, the taste reassures.’ The chef’s passion for creativity makes his culinary spirit unique. Decoratively arranged sashimi are briefly heated to draw out moisture. The chef doesn’t serve soup dishes, as much of his cooking tailors the dashi stock to each dish. His freewheeling personality makes the evening fun, while the folk-art vibe of the interior, including a chest of drawers inherited from the chef’s grandparents, fills the air with memories and the warmth of family.

Pitigliano is a town the chef visited in his apprenticeship and has fond memories of. During his time in Italy, the chef was deeply impressed by the custom of ‘zuppa’, or dipping pieces of bread into soups of vegetables and beans, so the menu offers an extensive selection of soups. Honest flavours and presentations mirror the food culture of the Italian countryside, featuring simple handmade pasta and char-grilled fish and meat. Scenes of diners sharing from a single plate are a reflection of daily life in Italy.