Premier suite Nishiazabu Roppongi front

Shinobu Namae welcomes guests in the spirit of ‘ichiza-konryu’, the philosophy that a restaurant is built on connections among chefs, staff, guests and food producers. The gastronomy and culture of Japan are here expressed through prix fixe menus. After the aperitif, the steaming hot risotto arrives―its inspiration drawn from the freshly cooked rice in 'chakaiseki' and brimming with the seasonal bounty of both mountain and sea. ‘Artisanal Vegetables’, the signature dish, is an homage to farmers. Weak matcha tea, borrowed from the etiquette of the Sowa tea ceremony, signals the meal’s end.

These days more and more guests are asking where the fish are caught. ‘If we could eat sushi where it’s caught, we wouldn’t need markets!’ retorts chef Takashi Ono. Discernment is a faculty built only slowly through long years of experience and knowledge. Along the way Ono has cultivated bonds of trust with seafood brokers, enabling him to source quality. The markets are the classic tale of ‘giri’ and ‘ninjo’, human connections forged in duty and loyalty. Sushi in purest form, stripped to its essence.

Back when there weren’t many sushi restaurants in Nishi-Azabu, the chef was determined to blaze a trail here. And ‘blaze a trail’ is basically what Taku means. The same trailblazing was what led him to be among the first sushi chefs to hire a sommelier, and to spread sushi culture in Hawaii. The variety of his omakase set meals, which start at 30 items, is eye-popping. Nigiri items alternate with drinking snacks. Sushi rice may be seasoned with white or red vinegar, depending on the fish topping—another trailblazing move.

The movements are those of one immersed in the world of nigiri. On the fingertips of the left hand balances a piece of fish; clutched in the right, a fistful of sushi rice; the tip of the forefinger applies wasabi. Pushing, occasionally pulling, and scoring in delicate strokes, the single-edged knife crafts hidden incisions to help flavour soak in and heat travel through. Gracefully flowing motion, fine-tuned through daily practice, is the simplicity that holds countless truths. The spirit of nigirizushi is in capable hands with Shintaro Suzuki.

The name is both a play on the owner’s name and a prayer for everlasting prosperity. The menu combines kaiseki and beef, showcasing Japan’s famous wagyu. Tsukuri and wanmono start the evening, celebrating the season. A procession of wagyu variations follows: beef-tail spring rolls, char-grilled tongue, and a main dish of beef cutlet. Japanese and beef dishes delight in equal measure.

The Japanese love of small spaces is deeply connected with the spirit of the tea ceremony and its cultural background. The counter, affording just the right distance between guests and Chef Toshiya Kadowaki, seats just six. The private room, whose low ceiling suggests a tearoom, is so intimate that guests can feel each other’s breathing. The menu features dishes where ingredients in season come together to create fleeting sensations that linger in the memory forever. Truffle rice, enriching the meal in both aroma and flavour, is a case in point.

Red and black are the thematic colours of L’ATELIER de Joël Robuchon. The classic Robuchon menu spins a tale like a 19th-century French novel. The menu ranges from famous specialities of years gone by to new arrangements incorporating seasonal Japanese ingredients. This really is ‘Joël Robuchon’s atelier’, where the genius honed his concept of French gastronomy.