Hyakuninchō house NEW OPEN-SJ0067

Tonkatsu Hinata sources pork from two prestigious brands with different flavour profiles. Both are selected for the sweetness of their fat, tender meat, pleasantly firm texture, and abundant flavour. The shop buys pig carcasses whole, so it can offer a wide variety of cuts, including not only loin and tenderloin but also prime rib and rump. Order the evening prix fixe meal and you’ll enjoy the privilege of tasting rarer cuts— rump cap, pork jowl and eye-of-round— fried one after another.

The counter spreads like a fan, so guests surround the kitchen. Chef and apprentice serve snacks and nigiri in turn, moving in perfect harmony. The house snack is iwashi-isobemaki, bite-sized pieces of pilchard wrapped in nori. Old-school sushi craftsmanship is woven in, such as spring sea bream topped with sweetened egg yolk flakes and lean tuna paired with mustard. In mutual support between restaurateur and farmers, sushi rice comes from the chef’s native Noto Peninsula. The team keeps the sushi smoothly flowing with deft motions, serving each guest with just the right intervals. ‘Takumi’ me

With close cooperation with food producers as his creed, the chef devotes himself to his 100% buckwheat juwari soba. He only uses ingredients native to Japan, to convey the charm of old-school soba. Depending where his ingredients come from, his soba may be served on a wickerwork tray, and may be either coarse-ground or ground with husks included. His inquiring mind drives him to check each day’s soba, adjusting thickness and serving temperature according to its nature. His diligent application is raising soba to new levels, as his many regulars would agree.

Unagi are dressed, skewered and grilled over high-grade charcoal. From the counter seats, the whole series of cooking scenes can be observed. The unagi are kept alive in purifying tanks until they are dressed, then dipped three times in sauce and grilled Edo-style. Sauce is used sparingly, letting the flavour of the fish speak for itself. Rice cooked somewhat firm, and freshly ground sansho pepper deliver a distinctive touch. Skilful restraint shows in the short steaming time and sparing use of sauce.

Makoto Onozawa finds inventive ways to break the mould while respecting tradition. Soup dishes and sashimi uphold the basics, reassuring the diner. Broiled unagi seasoned in soy-based sweet sauce is served together with broiled unseasoned unagi for a special treat. Rolled sushi of tuna and pickled daikon radish are served in the intervals, bringing satisfaction. The meal concludes on two comfort-food notes: soba and curry. Breaking tradition, after all, is about seeing the job to completion.

‘Novel yet nostalgic Western food’ is the theme here. Hamburger steaks with dollops of demi-glace sauce and gratin dressed in silky smooth béchamel sauce are prepared in time-honoured ways, bringing back the flavours of the good old days. Decompression-prepared salad offers rich flavours and uniquely fresh textures. Unchanging methods combine with advanced cooking techniques declare a new approach to Western favourites.

Love of shellfish above all else led the chef of Ubuka to tread the culinary path. He has done his homework, and the results show in a menu filled with crab and prawn suggestions. Some items follow kaiseki style, while others are Western in influence. Terrine of hair crab is an idea borrowed from French cuisine; fried prawns are immersed in sauce américaine. The meal concludes with crab and vegetables on rice cooked in an earthenware pot. Portions are generous to ensure guests can fully appreciate their shellfish. No wonder this restaurant is so busy.