Sleep with the stars

‘Kontrast’ is not just a name at this sleek, fittingly stark restaurant in the city’s former industrial district; the concept informs everything they do, from the make-up of the international team to the smart combinations of ingredients in the dishes. A rich stew of superb langoustine claw meat, for example, is balanced by the fresh crunch and perfectly judged acidity of pickled carrot. While the dining area benefits from a softly lit intimacy, the open kitchen is brighter so that your eye is drawn to the supremely talented chefs.

Time seems to stand still at Maaemo, where a dramatic, high-ceilinged dining room comes with a theatrically lit open kitchen and a wool-draped wall made of offcuts from national folk costumes. The surprise tasting menu comprises a succession of expertly crafted, consistently memorable dishes that deliver sublime flavours and textures in superbly conceived combinations; maybe honey-glazed langoustine – grilled over embers – with hazelnuts and roasted garlic or dry-aged reindeer with blackcurrant and verbena. To finish, coffee and jewel-like petits fours are served in the speakeasy-style lounge.

With its low-ceilinged intimacy and bright red décor, the cheekily named Bar Amour contains subtle throwbacks to the brothel that once occupied this space. In these unusual surroundings, an impressively well-run dining experience unfolds. The tasting menu blends superb, recognisably Norwegian produce, like skrei cod and reindeer, with influences from Chef Carlos De Medeiros’ native Portugal. Every dish arrives showcasing refined craft and a harmonious balancing of flavours. It's not that easy to find, hidden away on the first floor of the Tranen pizzeria and café.

Named after a classic Jacques Tati comedy, this intimate restaurant harks back to the founding era of French cuisine. The chefs wear toques and their classical training comes through in dishes like duck à l'orange with glazed turnips, carrots and kumquat confit. There is a pleasing level of refinement in the sauces – like a superb sauce marinière with razor clams royale – and everything is beautifully presented. An impressive French wine list accompanies the food.

A charming 17th-century house in the city’s heart plays host to these three elegant dining rooms, where chandeliers hang from wonderfully ornate stucco ceilings and an interesting array of antiques and curios are on display. Expertly rendered classical cooking uses seasonal ingredients in familiar combinations that are given a personal touch when it comes to the seasoning. Dishes could include seared halibut with spiced scallops or langoustine in a deliciously rich bisque. Top-notch service and a comprehensive wine list complete the picture.

As you enter this tiny restaurant inside a former stable block, you find yourself in the kitchen being greeted by the chefs; you can then eat in the same space whilst watching them at work, or request a table upstairs for a little more intimacy. The surprise menu evolves daily and has a playful touch, with the well-balanced dishes making great use of vegetables, herbs, flowers and fruits from their own garden.

Your experience here will be far more pleasant than the name suggests, with a range of global influences resulting in fabulously original dishes. The restaurant is tucked inside the Att | Kvadraturen hotel and is enlivened by a bold mural dominating one wall. Counter seats are available to enjoy the beautifully presented and technically impressive dishes which meld together flavours, textures and combinations from around the world. The Shapes of Nature menu takes guests on an 18-21 course journey from the ocean to the city, while the Classics menu comprises 14 servings of SAVAGE favourites.