Nuan Inn Secret Courtyard

Tucked away in a quiet alley, this wooden Lanna-style restaurant has been around for over a decade. It stands in a garden and has open-air and indoor tables, plus private pavilions. The menu showcases the gamut of Northern Thai cuisine, from fiery dips to herby soups. Two recommendations are the spicy galangal dip with steamed mushrooms for its sweetness and aroma, and the spicy vegetable soup with serpent-head fish: fragrant, earthy and perfectly balanced.

This thoughtful take on Thai cuisine unfolds in a casual, wood-accented space. The chef adds a personal touch to seasonal Thai ingredients in three menus: "Special", "Seasonal" and "Classic". We recommend asking about the catch of the day. Start with crispy rice crackers and Thai tomato salsa and pair your meal with Thai draft beer or aromatic alcohol-free drinks. Booking is required, as there are just 14-16 seats per service for each of the three daily rounds.

This place specialises in Guay Jub with Sai Ua sausage, served in a unique peppery broth, featuring with crispy pork and pork liver. They also offer another delightful dish: fresh spring rolls, topped with sliced omelette and aromatic sauce.

This shop serves the famous Khao Soi, featuring rich and slightly spicy curry notes. You can choose your preferred meat toppings, and the portions are so delicate that you might find yourself wanting another round!

With just four large communal tables, Magnolia Café is a simple, cosy spot enlivened by bold colours, vintage décor, and chandeliers. The owner-chef’s exquisite personal collection is on display, and she pays meticulous attention to sourcing high-quality ingredients, some from overseas. Their à la carte menu offers tasty, well presented fare from across Thailand. Dishes are distinguished by vivid, gutsy flavours; fried sun-dried squid with peanut sauce and fresh watermelon with desiccated salmon are exemplars. A complimentary pandan pudding is offered, making for a sweet and satisfying finish.

Located opposite Wat Ket Karam, this humble gem of a shop specialises in khao kriap pak mo – steamed rice dumplings with a truly generous drizzle of fresh coconut milk – and neatly wrapped tapioca dumplings brimming with sweet and savoury pork and peanut.

Eung Kham Sai has been run by the same family for over a century and is still serving up classic Northern Thai recipes handed down the generations. The modest space has traditional decor; large windows frame the view outside. Try the freshly made khao bai, rice wrapped around a pork, fish or beef filling, or the spicy Northern-style curry, made from scratch with local beef brisket and exuding fruity acidity. Some ingredients come from local farms.