Old Town - Demini Apartment

The latest opening from the Siigur restaurant group sits within the bustling Rotermann Quarter. One of the hottest tickets in town, it’s a big, bold, blingy space complete with colourful furnishings and an open kitchen, at the heart of which is the Vulcano Gres Grill, where the dancing flames add not just flavour but also to the atmosphere. The extensive menu offers a good choice of Mediterranean-inspired dishes but, of course, it’s the meats and grills cooked over the fire that are the stars of the show. Lunch is good value, and the capable team cater as well for large groups as they do table

Above the Fotografiska photo gallery sits an equally striking restaurant offering picture-perfect views out across the Old Town; be sure to make the most of this by either starting or ending your night with cocktails in the rooftop bar. A ‘leaf-to-root, nose-to-tail’ ethos leads the way, with each ingredient used to the maximum – be that in the dishes themselves or as a garnish in one of the drinks – and the highly original cooking could include the likes of rabbit agnolotti or apple pie with chanterelle ice cream. On summer Sundays they offer a themed brunch.

From the owners of Lore Bistroo comes UMA, situated in a waterside warehouse where they once built submarines for the Russian navy and now boasting a superb harbourside terrace. An on-trend spot, it’s name stands for ‘Unorthodox Modern Asian’, and that’s exactly what you’ll find here. The great value menu mixes small and large plates – all designed for sharing – and keeps recognisable flavours such as satay and sweet & sour to the fore. The freshly cooked coconut flatbread is a must, while the ‘UMA Experience’ offers a little of everything, with the dishes served on stands akin to those used f

The sister restaurant to neighbouring UMA is a characterful modern bistro which sits in a cavernous warehouse overlooking the harbour at Port Noblessner. Steel girders, hoists and concrete pillars provide the backdrop, while an open kitchen adds to the buzz. Assured, modern dishes are inspired by the owners’ travels, ensuring you'll always find something that appeals. Go for the Lore Experience menu if you fancy sharing dishes served family-style – and if you see crêpes Suzette on the menu, be sure to give them a try! Friendly service rounds out the experience perfectly.

A residential neighbourhood just outside the city centre plays host to this sweet little house with light turquoise clapboard walls and a bright red roof. Its name means ‘mantel and chimney’ and, fittingly, a green-tiled fireplace and mantel take centre stage in a room furnished with striking wallpapers and bold soft furnishings. Flavoursome dishes have an honest heart and could include goat’s cheese with beer chutney, beetroot and orange or gnocchi with chorizo, sun-dried tomatoes, pine nuts and bechamel sauce. The well-chosen wines have an organic and biodynamic bias, and service is endearin

Spread between the basement and the ground floor of a small hotel in the Old Town, CRU has been reborn as Osteria il Cru – and both its new name and the olive tree at the centre of the cosy room give a good indication of its new direction. Head Chef Ivari Vokk leads a newly formed kitchen team in creating Italian dishes that exhibit all the flavours you know and love, enhanced by a few personal twists. The extensive menu represents good value and offers plenty of choice, including the likes of spinach and ricotta stuffed zucchini flowers, parmigiana di melanzane and delicious homemade pastas.

Personally run Rado is a place of contrasts. It’s located in the delightfully historic Old Town but has a stylish modern interior. And the buzzy vibe of its ground floor gives way to a more intimate atmosphere in the basement. What is consistent throughout is the service. The chatty, knowledgeable team will guide you through the daily blackboard menu, whose terse descriptions mask ambitious dishes guided by the seasons, maybe ‘Cauliflower’, served with a thick thyme sauce and topped with parmesan, or ‘Lamb Liver’, presented on a bed of creamy mash and accompanied by bitter chicory leaves and s