master St. Paul's

Top restaurants never stop developing – and that’s certainly the case with Ikoyi. Founder and chef Jeremy Chan’s surprise tasting menu uses high-quality organic produce from the British Isles, married with global spices, to create dishes that are as unique and creative as they are bold and beautiful to behold – and they now display even greater levels of depth and complexity. Dishes like aged turbot with egusi miso or suya with creamed peas are bound to enthral, while the theatrically presented smoked jollof rice will always be one of the highlights.

There’s no standing on ceremony here at St. JOHN; indeed, very little ceremony at all, and that makes eating here such a joyful experience. As one of the foremost proponents of nose-to-tail cooking, this is the place to try new things, whether that’s bone marrow or ox liver. Seasonality is at its core and nothing sums up the philosophy more than the potatoes and greens: they're always on the menu but the varieties and types change regularly. There are also dishes for two, as well as magnums of wine for real trenchermen. Do order the warm madeleines for the journey home.

There’s something about Luca that makes it feel like a proper grown-up restaurant, largely because the relaxed clientele just know they’re going to be well looked after. What brings them all here is the expertly rendered Italian food, which is satisfyingly robust yet effortlessly easy to eat. The pasta course will certainly be a highlight – whether that’s cappelletti of salt-baked potato or tortelli of pumpkin with ricotta – but the other dishes, featuring such quality ingredients as Orkney scallops or Hereford beef, won’t ever disappoint. For great value, choose the Express Lunch menu served

Find the subtle little sign and then head upstairs to this lively, hugely fun restaurant serving thrilling cooking from Greece and beyond. This is the spot that the capital’s Hellenic food enthusiasts have been crying out for, with utterly delicious sharing dishes that include spreads and breads, tuna in various forms, plenty from the charcoal grill and standouts like spanakopita and giouvetsi. The covered terrace overlooks Borough Market, the pacing from the kitchen is spot on and the young service team are both warm and helpful. The list of coastal wines is great too.

Top-drawer fish, treated with the culinary skill it deserves, is the main attraction at this restaurant on the top floor of the South Place Hotel. The chefs have the confidence to know that when seafood is this good, it needs little in the way of adornment, and the pared-back cooking allows exceptional produce like roast Newlyn cod to shine through. Dishes are attractively presented and so is the room, with an ornate ceiling and inviting roof terrace.

When your restaurant is on the 60th floor, thus becoming the tallest in Europe, it makes complete sense that the 12-seater counter faces the window and the stunning view over the city, rather than the chefs in their open kitchen. Gordon Ramsay’s exclusive little sky dining restaurant offers a surprise tasting menu, built around ingredients from the top drawer. Highlight dishes could include 14-day aged duck with celeriac and Alsace bacon, and lobster with pumpkin and pine. Everyone is served together so be punctual – and allow a little extra time for security checks on the ground floor.

There’s a refreshing lack of formality at Trivet, both in the look of the room and in the style of the service, but that’s not to say this isn’t a very professionally run operation. The chefs in the open kitchen craft imaginative, fuss-free dishes using prime seasonal ingredients, where the combinations are balanced and flavours assured. Try dishes like ‘Pigeon and persimmon’ or the imaginatively titled ‘Turkish breakfast’ dessert, and you’ll see a kitchen full of imagination and ability. Wine plays an integral role, with personable service and a thoughtfully curated list championing lesser-kn