GLAMPING GATE 奈良

‘Akordu’ is Basque for ‘memories’. Chef Hiroshi Kawashima invokes memories from his ingredients, encapsulating messages in his cooking. Each course in the prix fixe meal comes with a card; menu names are akin to story titles. Kawashima interprets the history and cultural topography of Nara through a modern Spanish sensibility cultivated in Basque country. Cuisine bursting with creativity, beautifully prepared and arranged.

‘Nikon’, meaning ‘live to the full in this moment’, was the principle advocated by Zen master Dogen Zenji (1200–1253). Every day in his kitchen the chef displays the sincere devotion to Japanese cuisine he has had ever since he began at the bottom of the ladder. He focuses above all on the right timing for handling his ingredients: when to prep, when to slice, and so on. Serving at just the right temperature is vital as well. This craftsman’s spirit of applying every ounce of effort in the present moment is reflected in the name of the restaurant.

This house, surrounded by bamboo, welcomes only one party per day. The refined gate, elegant room and tasteful garden are all the work of the proprietor. Devotion is paid to every aspect of cuisine and service in the spirit that each meal is a once-in-a-lifetime encounter. Meals incorporate seasonal flavours from across Japan. To convey the proprietor’s feelings for the food directly, ingredients are brought to the table and sometimes even prepared before guests’ eyes. Western ingredients are also used, charming diners with creativity beyond Japanese cuisine.

An auberge at the foot of Mt Wakakusa. Here, at the epicentre of Nara gastronomy, the bounty of the land is used to its fullest potential. Locations of producers and producing regions are featured on the menu as a sign of respect. Inspired by Mt Wakakusa’s famous ‘burning mountain’, food is cooked over a wood flame, imparting a smoky fragrance while preserving moisture. The name COMMUNICO means ‘understanding each other’ in Italian, a prayer that food creators and diners will find mutual understanding here.

The detached house looks at home amid the venerable townscape of old Nara. Enter the traditional wooden townhouse, however, and a modern atrium greets you, juxtaposing old with new. Offering ‘cuisine that reflects the milieu of Nara and the four seasons’, the owner-chef shines a spotlight on local ingredients, arranging them according to the flavours of the season. Wagyu from Uda is char-grilled; spring is celebrated with Japanese pepper flower, and autumn with matsutake mushrooms. Antique dishware brings out the beauty of simple presentations.

Guided by the motto ‘Dainty comes from cordiality’, the chef approaches his cuisine with care. Seasonal Yamato vegetables are sourced from nearby farms, as he came to appreciate how fresh vegetables can be while working at a restaurant with its own fields. Hassun platters combine classical techniques with new ideas. The menu reflects the traditions of Japanese cuisine and the touch of the seasons. The chef’s sincere approach shows in his work, a constant reminder of his gratitude for nature’s bounty.

‘Kuko’ is the goji berry, reputed to be a natural drug granting longevity and perpetual youth. A devotee of traditional Chinese medicinal cuisine, the chef follows the principles ‘You are what you eat’ and ‘Healthy food can help prevent and support recovery from illness’. Thus guided, he takes up Nara ingredients to prepare dishes that minister tenderly to the body’s needs. Prix fixe meals revolve around both Nara and Chinese vegetables, all grown in the restaurant’s own garden. Dishes arranged on Jingdezhen porcelain are a gorgeous sight. Music of the guqin, the ancient Chinese seven-stringed