谷町君・星屋・談山旅館　京都嵐山

Standing on the grounds of Tenryuji Temple, a World Heritage site, the restaurant presents the vegetarian diet that is part of Buddhist training. Arranging cuisine on vermilion-lacquered plates reflects Zen convention. Every dish is nourishing, from sesame tofu and deep-fried tofu mixed with vegetable slices to dressed vegetables. To live is to eat, to give thanks to life, to cherish the moment. The Zen spirit of harmony with nature breathes within these walls.

Tozentei takes its name from a fictitious restaurant in a novel. ‘Tozen’ means ‘tipsy,’ a state of being slightly and comfortably under the influence; the name invites guests to find pleasure in both tucker and tipple. The fabric of human relations in this family-run restaurant exudes a feel of immersion in a cheerful TV drama or story. Tilefish steamed with plums and kombu consummately combines the flavour of the fish flesh with the tartness of dried plums. Tozentei is located close to Tenmangu, a shrine famous for the plum trees beloved by the poet and statesman Sugawara no Michizane. The co

‘Fujitora’ is a blend of the chef’s name and that of the shop where he apprenticed, created to bring luck. It was his mentor’s ramen that inspired him to embark on his current path. The techniques he cultivated and his inquisitive mind shine in his chicken-and-pork soup. The chef prepares this soup in a large stockpot in the kitchen, patiently teasing every drop of umami from the ingredients. Sauce for soy-sauce ramen is created from a medley of soy sauces to harmonise with the soup.

The residential neighbourhood is like a maze and the restaurant has no sign out front. A spotlight on a bowl of ramen in a showcase indicates you’ve arrived. ‘Ramen’ distils the chef’s experience in Kyoto, pairing clear soup made with seafood dashi and pure soy sauce with house-made Kyoto wheat noodles. Thinly sliced roasted pork fillet is from Kyoto-raised swine. Blue bowls of specially ordered Kiyomizu ware set off each meal to its advantage.

‘Wavie’ (pronounced ‘wah-vee’) is an invented word combining Japanese ‘wa’, ‘harmony’, with French ‘vie’, ‘life’; it expresses the concept of French cuisine brought to new life through Japanese ingredients. The prix fixe menu is squarely focused on the ingredients of Kyoto and its environs. Vegetables fermented in herbs add depth and character to the flavours. Arrangements are modern in style. With sauces based on wine and cream, wavie fuses Japanese and French influences to create a culture of culinary harmony.

The name refers to a type of conical hat worn by monks in training. The restaurant is adjacent to Myoshinji, the head temple of the Rinzai school of Zen Buddhism, where its founder learned the forms and spirit of shojin-ryori. Dishes are served on vermilion-lacquered serving-ware, a convention of Zen Buddhism, and arranged for colourful, eye-catching presentation. Udon, prepared with soy flour added, is a signature dish. Fresh soybean curds are a delicacy of the house. Vegetarian cuisine handed down from classical times that soothes the soul.

Emmachi is where the chef was born and raised. He turned the family home into a restaurant, pledging to contribute to the town he loves. ‘Hosun’ means ‘a little square’ or ‘the space occupied by my heart’; the Japanese of old believed that the heart covered about 9 square centimetres, and the chef wants his shop to be a place where the hearts of guests and chef come together. Cuisine is focused on dashi, with harmony between ingredients and broth. The flavour of the seasoned first dashi in soup dishes derives from makombu seaweed. Char-grilled fish is paired with dashi paste.