老農夫山莊 新竹縣民宿

This béton brut villa in a quiet alley sports a lofty, minimalist vibe and an open kitchen. The family has been selling bantiao, or flat rice noodles, for over 20 years and the third-generation owner has added a bigger Hakkanese menu on top of the signature noodles. The family favourite, braised pork, stands out with melting, gelatinous skin and a savoury-sweet soy flavour. Popular dishes tend to run out, so come early.

This shop with a retro hipster vibe sells chhau-a-koe, a soft, chewy Hakkanese bun made with sticky rice and long-grain rice flours. The savoury version is generously stuffed with shredded white radish, dried shrimps, lard and ground pork. The sweet version with taro or red bean filling is also drool-worthy. Faithful to his grandma’s recipe, the chef adds Chinese mugwort to the dough of sweet version for a green colour and a unique herbal aroma.

Simple and rustic, this century-old house is the epitome of nostalgic charm. The owner-chef sources his produce from small nearby farms to craft a seasonal Hakkanese lineup. There isn’t a set menu, but you can call ahead to check what is available and pre-order. His Hakkanese stir-fries are a must – every ingredient is cooked to perfection and retains its crisp texture, while imparting big-boned flavours and wok hei. Booking recommended.

This shop began as a street stall over 60 years ago. Into the third generation, the family business still attracts diners in droves with good old comfort food. Its eponymous ang gu noodles see springy and thick oil noodles tossed in aromatic scallion oil with chives and bean sprouts. Ribbon rice noodle soup is another crowd stopper. For a range of textures, try three-brother soup with taro, mushrooms, and squid ink pork balls in pork bone broth.

Founded by a vegetarian F&B group in 2020, Shan Guo Tang boasts a lofty space drenched in natural light. The Japanese-inspired wood-rich interior feels serene. Unlike many vegetarian joints, the menu brims with creative gems based on Taiwanese, Sichuanese and Jiangzhe cuisines. Stir-fried vegan pork with French beans and pickled gourd seduces with crisp textures and big-boned flavours, ideal with steamed burdock rice.

This unsophisticated eatery champions home-style Hakkanese fare whose low fat and sodium content is rich in healthy benefits. The welcome drink, sicklepod tea, is said to promote bowel and eye health. Their signature Silkie chicken herbal soup is slow-cooked for eight hours with over 30 Chinese herbs. To highlight its herbal aromas, the health tonic is intentionally unseasoned. For starch, try their fried rice with home-made pickles loaded with savoury depth.

This offshoot of a 30-year-old dumpling shop exudes rustic charm with warm wood and rattan features. In tribute to the unique food culture in villages for military families, the menu offers steamed dumplings, side dishes and marinated meat, all characterised by fresh, balanced flavours. Noodles are served in soup or tossed in sauces, with a choice between knife-cut noodles and fine noodles. Also try their steamed pork ribs in spiced ground rice.