Fuqian Qiagong Villa

A Hsing has been serving Tainan-style milkfish congee since 1965, attracting a queue as early as 5am every morning. You can specify the cut you want; the belly is the most prized part of the fish, boasting fatty, silky flesh. The congee base is flavoursome; fried garlic pieces on top add extra aroma. Feel free to order milkfish belly dressed in soy sauce as well. Unlike most simple shops in Tainan, air-conditioned seating is available inside.

Tainanese don’t need a sign to find good food in every nook and cranny of their city. This shop is one of such joints – a nondescript space clad in corrugated metal sheets, but that doesn’t stop regulars from queuing at the door. Its Tainan-style congee is more like soupy rice than the creamy type. Milkfish fillet, oysters, Chinese celery and rice are drenched in a clear stock to make the brunch favourite of many.

After five decades of business in Guohua Street Market, the lamb soup stall shut its doors in 2013. Regulars lamented the loss but the owner’s nephew quit his job in Taipei to re-open the shop here. The famous soup made with freshly slaughtered local lamb meat and bones is the must-try item, but do order other lamb cuts and offal blanched in the soup and dressed in sesame oil. Come early – everything is sold out before 11 am.

Amid century-old shops on the same street, A Wen opened its doors only in 2016. But it has quickly won the hearts of many with their rice cake made from scratch. Rice milk is mixed with three sweet potato starches for the right consistency before steamed, sliced and fried till golden. Try the Zhao Pai variety for rice cake in bamboo shoot pork sauce. The over-easy egg is the icing on the cake (pun intended); try also their house-made chilli sauce.

This quaint red-brick mansion built circa 1846 has been home to an omakase restaurant serving traditional Taiwanese banquet dishes since 2015. The room was carefully restored to its former glory, befitting the old-time recipes the head chef got hooked on. For a flat fee per person, your party will be served seven dishes and one soup, all made with local seasonal ingredients like milkfish from Cigu and rice from Houbi. Reservations are mandatory.

Founded in 1935, this shop claims to be the creator of calamari rice noodle soup. Into the third generation, the owner still insists on making thick rice noodles with brown rice for its fragrance and firm texture. Calamari from Indonesian waters are cooked in a clear broth with intense flavour, a hint of peppery aroma and a sweet aftertaste. The shop is a bit congested, but clean and air-conditioned. Expect to queue for a table on holidays.

Shaved ice is mandatory for anyone spending a summer afternoon in scorching Tainan. But even in winter, shaved ice has its loyal fans. For over 50 years, Yuan Zai Hui has been specialising in eight-treasure shaved ice, traditionally with eight toppings. But the owners serve a simplified version allowing customers to choose five toppings out of 10-plus house-made choices. Signature include mini mochi balls, candied taro and tapioca wedges.