the hammer and pincers

This restaurant has become quite the operation over the years, what with its main dining room, Tasting Room, Kitchen Bench, bedrooms, garden and even its own bees. Sat Bains has an unerring commitment to well-sourced produce, both from his own garden and around the British Isles; fresh, snow-white crab is a great example, enhanced by the ingenious accompaniments of dashi jelly and a rich bisque infused with star anise. Whatever the dish, it will be as punchy as it is good looking. You're guided smoothly through the whole experience by the genial, well-versed service team.

The old water pump out the back hints at its days as the village forge but this is now a brightly decorated, intimate restaurant run with natural warmth by its experienced owners. The seasonally minded tasting menu is composed of ambitious, creative dishes overflowing with different flavours and textures; if you're lucky, it might include the excellent beef Wellington, which is presented and sliced at the table for a welcome bit of theatre. Boutique bedrooms are available if you're exploring the area.

Alchemilla occupies the red-brick vaulted arches of a Victorian carriage house, yet despite its rustic first impression, it’s a modern place. A living wall and roof garden set the scene for Head Chef Alex Bond's inspired, exciting cooking that utilises sustainably sourced ingredients. As well as injecting plenty of his own personality into the dishes, he has an innate skill for bringing together sweet, sour, salty and citrus elements in wonderful harmony; his aged hogget with roasted lemon, aubergine and black olive is a prime example. The esoteric wine list has a bias towards natural wines.

Hidden in the basement of the old city law courts and jail is this friendly, long-standing restaurant which comes with a vaulted ceiling, colourful tiling and ornate fretwork. The menu is just as interesting, living up to its name with dishes that incorporate elements from yuzu to dukkah alongside the firmly Mediterranean base. Around four dishes per person is about right, with the 'gambas a la plancha' well worth an order. The ‘Express’ menu available on midweek early evenings represents great value.

Head through the arch of Enfield Chambers and you'll be transported to this uber-cool setting. The Japanese cooking revolves around small plates and skewers, cooked over a charcoal grill with consummate skill. Bright, authentic and generous, each dish is a joy to eat and sensibly priced too. If you're coming for lunch, get here early as they don't take bookings and the lunchtime offer is phenomenally good value. Efficient service, a dynamic atmosphere and a courtyard terrace all add to the already considerable appeal.

Being hidden down an alleyway and up some stairs in the centre of Nottingham, you’ll need to follow your map closely to find this rustic restaurant in a lovely period building – think exposed brickwork, timbers and dried flowers hanging on the wall. Cooking-wise it’s all about small plates, with three to four per person about right; these dishes show off recognisable flavour combinations executed with aplomb, like ham fritters with the eponymous piccalilli. The wine list is concise but carefully curated, with quality choices at a fair price.

After a change of ownership, this fine rural inn has got a spring back in its step, while preserving some of the best elements from its historic past. The carved Jacobean fireplace in the bar, for example, is still in situ – along with a more formal dining room and suntrap terrace. The cooking draws on hearty pub fare like ham hock and piccalilli; as an alternative to dessert, why not order the local stilton? There are only six dairies in the world licensed to make this cheese, and one of them is right here in Colston Basset – so it would be rude not to!