Saint Jacques

This restaurant welcomes us on the outskirts of Argelès-sur-Mer, by the small bridge spanning the coastal river La Massane. In this charming old building with exposed stone and brickwork modernised with a few contemporary touches, diners savour regional cuisine made with Mediterranean fish, locally caught anchovies, vegetables and sun-drenched citrus fruit. Examples include "traditional Catalan-style" anchovies, summer vegetables, grilled pepper sorbet; roasted monkfish tail, prawns and shellfish, lemon butter; grilled wild sea bass, asparagus and spring vegetables, hollandaise sauce.

This place is an open secret among food lovers – and with good reason! Chef Thibaut Lesage and Stéphanie, his pastry chef wife, sign a hunger-satiating modern repertory that stars first-class Catalan produce. Select choice of local and natural wines. Bookings are essential. Before you leave, head upstairs and take a peek at the art gallery.