Tainan Sleepie Inn

A devotee of the goddess Mazu, the owner-chef picked this space near the Grand Mazu Temple for his venture. Motifs of the goddess are dotted throughout the restaurant, from its sign to the shrine-inspired décor. Home-style cooking is kicked up a notch with a touch of sophistication. Leafy greens deftly meld the depth and umami of the fresh, salted and thousand-year egg trio. Try the squid and whelk soup, a classic banquet dish rarely found in Tainan. Closed during Mazu festivities.

Over 70 years ago, a stall opened by a small park and the owner would sit on a tiny stool to blanch the noodles, to be tossed in pork sauce or served in soup. Nowadays, the park no longer exists, but the owner still sits on a stool like the old days. Soup noodles are recommended – silky, al dente thin egg noodles in a flavoursome broth, topped with velvet shrimps and braised minced pork. Do order sides or braised dishes on top.

This quaint red-brick mansion built circa 1846 has been home to an omakase restaurant serving traditional Taiwanese banquet dishes since 2015. The room was carefully restored to its former glory, befitting the old-time recipes the head chef got hooked on. For a flat fee per person, your party will be served seven dishes and one soup, all made with local seasonal ingredients like milkfish from Cigu and rice from Houbi. Reservations are mandatory.

This century-old Chinese medicine shop was converted into a restaurant specialising in therapeutic food. The sixth-generation owner intentionally kept the apothecary cabinets and used some inscribed plaques as dining tables. Eight tonic soups are offered each day, all tasty and mild in herbal flavour – refer to the menu for their medicinal actions. Make it a complete meal by ordering a set – with noodles tossed in sesame oil, a drink and sweet soup.

A Hsing has been serving Tainan-style milkfish congee since 1965, attracting a queue as early as 5am every morning. You can specify the cut you want; the belly is the most prized part of the fish, boasting fatty, silky flesh. The congee base is flavoursome; fried garlic pieces on top add extra aroma. Feel free to order milkfish belly dressed in soy sauce as well. Unlike most simple shops in Tainan, air-conditioned seating is available inside.

Over 60 years old, this eatery has moved four times, but that hasn’t deterred its loyal followers who continue to queue up daily before opening time. Shrimp roll is a classic Taiwanese snack and a must-try for all visitors. Huang Chia’s version is stuffed with shrimp and cabbage and is dipped in a potato starch batter before being deep-fried to order, resulting in a fluffy airy crust, with thinly sliced radish on the side for contrast.

The owner had been selling fried eels and squids for ages before he started serving migao by chance in 1985. Surprisingly, his sticky rice topped with braised pork, sliced cucumber, fish floss and peanut quickly surpassed his original offerings in popularity – and he has focused on migao and sishen herbal soup ever since. The gravy on his migao has a peppery aroma to go alongside the rich and deep flavours.