Quick Palace Auxerre Monéteau

This edifice on the banks of the Yonne is truly superlative! Founded by Marie Lorain in 1945, the establishment rose to fame in the hands of her son, Michel, and then later, when her modest, conscientious grandson, Jean-Michel, took over. The latter has entrusted his nephew, Alexandre Bondoux, with the task of composing the menu. Regulars can rest assured that the original, iconic dishes remain (lobster stew; calf sweetbread in ginger), now flanked by flashes of inspiration (skate wing à la meunière in green butter, lovage and morels; suckling lamb from the Pyrenees, gambero rosso and Arabica-

Set in a stunning estate complete with a golf course and spa, this former hunting lodge has been turned into a hotel and fine dining restaurant. The vaulted dining area with white tablecloths and an understated contemporary decor looks out onto the green. Originally from the Cévennes, Clément Vergeat (formerly at Guy Savoy and Alliance in Paris, Kokkeriet in Copenhagen) has devised a surprise menu that combines produce from Southern Europe with Northern European techniques: Camargue oysters with dried duck; smoked prawn tartare smørbrød style; fermented strawberries and matured lamb. Marine Ma

At the foot of Saint Pierre Church, sited in a historic town house, the dining room sports a minimalist edge. The Japanese chef crafts cuisine that pairs local produce with the millimetric accuracy of his homeland, depicted by trout in a beurre blanc with celeriac and nori seaweed, or a rack of pork with a charcutière sauce. Sensibly priced lunchtime market menu, more ambitious in the evening.

A few minutes’ walk from the covered market, this dinky eatery, refurbished in a tasteful modern vibe, is the brainchild of François Liebaert, a well-known local chef. His enticing seasonal menu is occasionally jazzed up with creative notes, such as line-caught hake served with a gutsy Spanish sauce, flanked by spot-on balanced seasonings and artistic plating. Estelle efficiently and cheerfully manages the front of house.

In this world-famous wine-growing village, a "wine bistro" is bound to be a hit. Picture the scene: a local entrepreneur, two Japanese chefs who are huge fans of French cuisine, top-notch ingredients (house-made tapas, charcuterie and purebred meats that have been perfectly matured), and an amazing wine list at bargain prices (to sample here or take away). Local patrons and wine-loving tourists mingle here, and a positive atmosphere reigns. To be consumed in moderation!

In the middle of the village, with the church on one side and fields on the other, this beautiful 18C manor house with a courtyard to the front has a refined, classical decor. The premises are both home and place of work for an enthusiastic, smiling couple with experience in some of the world's top restaurants. Sun Young, a pastry chef who hails from South Korea, and chef Jérémie work together to devise an appealing, delicious and rather traditional menu: super-soft poultry with crispy skin and an excellent, generous fricassee of chanterelle mushrooms, and a buttery potato purée; beef chuck co

Traditional, expertly crafted, market-fresh cuisine that lets the ingredient shout its name, such as lacquered sweetbread with peanuts and cauliflower. The à la carte lineup stars a range of pedigree Gallic classics such as homemade terrine, upside-down onion and chicory pie, calf’s head and even game in season. Cheerful service sets the tone in this handsome abode just a stone’s throw from the village church and square.