St Helens Hotel, Dublin

Close to the canal in the Dublin suburbs sits this airy, glass-fronted restaurant run by husband-and-wife team John and Sandy Wyer. There's a minimalist, casual elegance to the place, with the cosiest tables those in front of the open kitchen. Go for the full tasting menu to experience as much of John's mature, controlled cooking as possible. Dishes are free of overcomplication and put the emphasis firmly on the superb ingredients, such as glisteningly fresh cod with an original celeriac beurre blanc. The efficient service comes from a friendly team.

This iconic restaurant has been thriving since 1981, thanks to both the eponymous chef and the exceptional team he has around him. It sits hidden away within a Georgian townhouse and oozes sumptuousness and sophistication thanks to features such as a gilt barrel ceiling and hand-crafted marquetry. The accomplished cooking isn’t to be upstaged, however: it is French at heart yet has a restrained modernity and showcases some bold yet superbly balanced flavours. The Irish ingredients are certainly luxurious and the baba flambé with your choice of rum provides an inviting, classical way to finish.

When you browse a menu and see words like ‘pâté’, ‘rillettes’, ‘vin jaune’ and ‘au poivre’, you know you’re in for a thoroughly French treat. The surprise at Forêt is that these Francophone delights are found above the M. O’Brien’s pub – which couldn’t sound more Irish if it tried. Nevertheless, thanks to the team behind Forest Avenue next door, here you have a delicious slice of France, with every authentic dish combining top-quality produce and skilled execution to flavour-packed effect. The tomato tart with piperade is a prime example, simply bursting with umami.

Nestled away in a small parade, the ‘Black Fox’ takes its name from its position midway between the suburbs of Blackrock and Foxrock. Split over two floors, the upstairs has a slightly plusher feel, while the atmosphere is livelier downstairs, in part thanks to the open kitchen. The menu evolves with the seasons, mixing Mediterranean influences like ossocollo with East Asian elements like shiitake dumplings, across modern, flavoursome dishes. Service comes from a friendly and knowledgeable team, while a carefully curated wine list completes the experience.

Despite its discreet exterior, you'll be able to spot this charmingly run neighbourhood gem thanks to the warm glow of its red neon sign. Inside, the restaurant has an intimate, relaxing feel, with the exposed brick walls and red leather banquettes bathed in soft light, while smooth jazz plays in the background. To feel the buzz of the kitchen, sit downstairs, while the first floor is ideal for larger groups. The seasonally changing menu offers boldly flavoured dishes showcasing some interesting flavour combinations, like wild sea bass with prawn Bourguignon, bisque and capers.

Its name means ‘bliss’ and this smart Indian restaurant certainly feels like a haven from the bustling shopping centre in which it sits. Accessed via a narrow entrance, it's a sizeable place inside with a swish cocktail bar – and is stylishly decorated with attractive fretwork and vibrant art. The combination of accomplished, original cooking and assured, attentive service makes for a great all-round package. The ‘Railway Journey’ tasting menu is encouraged and is certainly the way to go if you want to sample as much of the cooking as possible.

This cosy first-floor restaurant is hidden above the French Paradox wine shop, which not only gives it an appealingly secretive feel but also makes opting for one of the interesting wine pairings a wise move. The tasting menu begins with delicate snacks and fine daily-made sourdough, before offering a choice of main course and dessert. In game season, you'd be foolish to miss the exquisitely cooked sika deer and the tarte Tatin is Chef-Owner Gráinne's crowd-pleasing signature. The chefs show not just skill but generosity, so you'll leave feeling full and satisfied.