Xu Jian Ping Tang Bao (Rehe South Road)
必比登¥Dim Sum
The owner's father was a chef at Jiming Restaurant, an iconic Nanjing establishment. Having inherited his skill for making authentic Suzhou-style soup dumplings, she opened this no-frills shop in a residential neighbourhood in 2012. On the concise menu, the handmade soup dumplings with thin skin and juicy, mildly sweet pork filling are the main event. Regulars also opt for pork wonton soup. Closes at 2pm. Arrive early to avoid disappointment.
Zheng Qing Niu Rou Guo Tie Dian
必比登¥Dim Sum
For almost 40 years, this small halal shop has won the hearts of locals with its well-made beef dishes. Potstickers are the must-try, seducing with crisp charred bottom, plump juicy beef filling and tempting scallion aromas. Beef wontons are little bombs bursting with meaty umami in a translucent velvety skin, served in a peppery beef broth. Other braised beef cuts and offal are also flavoursome, tender, and just the ticket with all kinds of noodles.
Fu Lin Xuan (Jiqingmen Street)
必比登¥¥Jiangsu Cuisine
The owner’s grandpa used to be a street vendor selling cold jelly noodles. In 2011, when the owner opened this restaurant, he decided to uphold this legacy and put them on the menu. The fine, velvety noodles are made with three types of starch, topped with dried radish and chilli and dressed in a sauce that is sweet, sour, savoury and spicy - all at the same time. Red-braised beef rib tips boast deep flavour and the cartilage adds a lovely texture. Reservations recommended.
Du Shi Li De Xiang Cun
必比登¥¥Jiangzhe
This unassuming-looking joint in a residential building has been in operation for over 20 years and locals are hooked on the home-style Jiangzhe dishes. With about 40 items on the menu, it's all killer, no filler. Top picks include "ruan dou" rice paddy eel served in a sizzling pot – incredible wok hei marries scallion aromas, deep umami and peppery warmth. The brine-poached pork intestine features bouncy meat on a bed of shredded tofu skin.
Cui Jie Xiao Chi
必比登¥Small eats
Founded by her mother back in the 1990s, this tiny gem continues to specialise in no-frills snacks as the current owner follows in her mother’s footsteps with all-time favourites like duck meat glass noodle soup, whose broth is slow cooked for hours to build up deep umami, while duck blood curd and duck intestine add varied textures. Glutinous rice balls in red bean soup are perfumed by sweet fermented rice. Also try soupy pork dumplings.
You Mian
必比登¥Noodles
Trained in Huaiyang cuisine, the owner applies the same level of care to preparing his noodles. Suzhou-style noodles work magic with Nanjing-style marinated meats in his signature beef brisket and tendon noodle soup – incredibly tender meat in an umami-laden broth made fresh daily from beef bone. Alternatively, you can ask for the "dry" version tossed in sauces. The sweet and sour pork ribs are another must-try, delivering depth and sweetness.
Hou Pin Xiao Yuan
必比登¥¥Huaiyang
The young chef-owner learnt his craft from his father, a renowned master in Huaiyang cuisine. At this restaurant, he flaunts solid technique, with his simple, well-made – and competitively priced – Huaiyang fare. The brine-poached pigeon has juicy, silky meat and imparts lingering umami. Check out the chef's recommendations on the blackboard, too. Certain painstakingly made dishes, such as sweet and sour "squirrel" mandarin fish, and eight treasure gourd duck, need to be pre-ordered.
Xin Fang Yuan
必比登¥¥Jiangzhe
Now run by the third-generation owner, this family business opened its doors in 1959. The decor is no great shakes, but authentic old-time Nanjing flavours, generous portions and wallet-friendly prices have won it acclaim. Be sure to try their hand-made egg-coated beef potstickers – juicy, aromatic and nicely caramelised, they are a must! The white silver carp head soup in claypot with tofu and wood ear fungus boasts contrasting textures.
Jin Ling Yang Jia Hun Tun Dian (Caodu Lane)
必比登¥Dim Sum
For over 30 years, this place has been packed with wonton soup lovers throughout the day. The room has seen better days, but regulars clearly don't consider that a deal breaker. Wontons are wrapped on the spot, cooked à la minute and jazzed up by chopped chives. It's worth paying extra to add duck blood curd, intestine or liver to your wonton soup, which goes well with flatbread in either the sweet or savoury variety.
Gu Jia Bao Zi
必比登¥Dim Sum
A local chef opened this small shop in an alley to serve traditional Nanjing-style xiao long bao. With slightly thicker skin than their Shanghainese counterparts, these dumplings are depicted by a soupy pork filling that is not fully enclosed within the pleated wrapper. Try the version with local chrysanthemum leaves that impart a unique herbal fragrance; the crab roe version brimming with orange, umami-laden tomalley is also hugely popular.
Li Ji Qing Zhen Guan
必比登¥Dim Sum
This century-old halal joint always has them queuing up for its piping hot beef potstickers – perfectly shaped crescents with juicy filling and browned, crispy bases. The beef xiao long bao are plump, delicate dumplings generously stuffed with soupy, gingery beef; just be careful the scalding soup doesn't squirt out. Beef wonton soup and an array of cold appetisers are also served. Chefs working behind the glass wall provide lively entertainment.
Fang Po
必比登¥Small eats
Since the 1970s, the owner has been treating customers to iconic Nanjing-style small bites at this no-frills shop. Black rice balls, the favourite breakfast for many, comprise black sticky rice with bilberry leaves and stuffed with meat. End on a sweet note with baby taro in osmanthus sweet soup thickened by lotus root starch. Glutinous rice balls in red bean soup with wine lees, and peppery beef broth are also popular.
Jin Ling Wang Jia Hun Tun (Jiqing Road)
必比登¥Dim Sum
Back in 1983, the owner's father began selling wonton soup on a bamboo pole. Today, the same wonton soup attracts diners in droves and there's always a queue by the entrance to this place. The hand-wrapped wontons have thin skin and a generous juicy filling. Feel free to sprinkle with dried baby shrimps, pickled mustard stem and chilli oil. Scallion or bean paste flatbread makes a great companion to the dumplings. Open until 1pm; arrive early.
Qiang Ye Fan Dian
必比登¥¥Cantonese, Jiangsu Cuisine
This restaurant comes from humble beginnings as a street hawker stall. Thanks to the unrelenting support of the city's foodies for over 30 years, it has expanded into a two-storey restaurant serving Jiangsu cooking alongside Cantonese favourites. The juicy frog's legs with duck tongues in sizzling claypot are a must – their smoky aroma is intoxicating. Some find the fragrance imparted by the stinky tofu and pork intestine pot addictive!
Hao Po Tang Bao
必比登¥Dim Sum
In the 1950s, the owner's grandparents co-founded the legendary Jiming Restaurant. He inherited the heritage soup dumpling recipe and opened his own shop in 2017. The space feels upbeat and targets a younger clientele. Soup dumplings, filled with pork or crabmeat and roe, are made to order and steamed in the typical Nanjing way – with the pleats facing down so as to retain the juices. Also try the Nanjing braised noodles, and duck blood curd glass noodle soup.
Xiao Pan Ji Ya Xie Fen Si Tang
必比登¥Noodles
Initially a cold appetiser shop in Hongmiao District, this place moved several times before settling in the bustling city centre. The signature duck blood curd glass noodle soup comes with a choice of different duck cuts and offal. If in doubt, go for the version with a bit of everything. The duck broth is deeply flavoured, the meat moist and silky. Classic palates will also relish the roast duck with crispy skin and juicy, marinated flesh.
Wu Ming Lao Lu Mian
必比登¥Noodles
This much-loved, family-run noodle shop has been around since 1991. In addition to hand-made wontons, it is also famous for lao lu mian: chewy, slippery and squiggly hand-cut noodles served in a dark, soy-based broth perfumed with an array of spices. Consider ordering add-on toppings, such as braised pork intestine, pork sparerib, and soft-poached egg with runny yolk. Expect to share a table at mealtimes.
Zhi He Lao Ya Fen Si Tang
必比登¥Noodles
For over 20 years, this neighbourhood shop run by a husband-and-wife team has won the hearts of many with its Nanjing-style duck offal glass noodle soup. Toppings include blood curd, intestine and stuffed tofu puffs. The deluxe version also comes with duck heart and gizzard. The clear duck broth is simmered for hours to develop deep umami. It is even better when the broth is soaked up with duck fat Shaobing flatbread or paired with puffed rice crackers to add some crunch.
San Bai Wan Bao Ying Chang Yu Mian
必比登¥Noodles
The owner couple opened this shop in 2012 to serve rice paddy eel noodles, a speciality from their home county of Baoying, Yangzhou. The fried version is the most popular choice: boasting velvety eel, bouncy noodles and smoky wok hei. It is served with a bowl of eel bone soup. For the soup varieties, choose between milky eel soup and clear broth topped with sautéed eel in a thick glaze. Add pork balls, pork aspic or cracklings for something extra.
Chi Man
必比登¥¥Jiangzhe
Its Chinese name means "late and slow", referring to the process of growing produce on its organic farm for the good of the ecosystem. Other ingredients are sourced from sustainable farms nearby, offsetting its carbon footprint. The main menu features mostly Jiangzhe dishes, and seasonal specials written on the blackboard. The home-style braised yellow croaker is prized for its fine meat and delicious sauce, which is soaked up by rice added at the end.
Guang Ying Ju · Lao Zheng Xing
必比登¥¥Jiangsu Cuisine
For over three decades, this local darling has been serving traditional Nanjing cuisine, including painstakingly crafted recipes that are hard to come by these days. In the hand-written vintage menu, you will find classics like Sichuan pepper-scented crispy skin duck and Dun Sheng Qiao – rice paddy eel that is deboned, pounded and deep-fried, before being poached in a meat broth with dried bamboo shoot. The generous portions are ideal for sharing.